Khumaga trip part 2

The following day I wanted to explore a part of the Boteti River that we haven’t been before, between Khumaga and Motopi. As we had to drive on the main road I thought it was best to put our number plate, that a fallen off in the river crossing, back on.

We drove to the very small village of Moreomaoto and attracted a lot of attention as I am sure not many white’s pass through. We were soon through the village and driving on a dirt road towards the Boteti.

We went round the road closed sign just before the river and headed down onto the river bed, the water level was much lower at this point, but still the area was very beautiful.

I was hoping to find roads along the river’s edge, but this was the only one and it seemed that at one stage people crossed here (before the road was closed), as there was a road up the other side. So I walked through the river and it was only ankle deep.

As I hoped there would be roads off to the sides on the other bank we crossed. After the crossing we did not think about checking to see if we still had our number plate. We drove around the road closed sign, pointing the other way.

This side of the river had no roads along its edge either. Checking our map, I saw that we were not far from the Maun/Nata road. So soon came up with the plan to get to it, drive to the northern gate of the Makgadikgadi National Park then cut back to the river and Khumaga gate.

Makgadikgadi National ParkWe had driven the road once before and it was actually better now than then. The rains had compacted the soft sand.

Roughly halfway down the road is a man- made waterhole and as we got close to it we could seen 4 elephants drinking, but they moved off and went into the shade of some big trees.

Near the waterhole was also a large herd of giraffe, must have been at least 20 of all sizes.

As we got to the river bank we could see a group of 7 elephant bulls, that were busy drinking, rolling in the mud and throwing water and/or mud over their bodies to cool themselves.

Dropping down into the river bed, one bull clearly indicated to us, that he wasn’t to happy with our presence. He shook his head and advanced a bit towards us with his head up. As we were at a safe distance, with the car on and had an easy escape route, we stayed to take pictures.

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Sue’s sister, Pauline, felt that we were far too close, and she kept telling me to go, so I edged forward 5 cm at a time. She then told me a kilometer would be far better and finally she said “just f…. off”.

We did the Boteti River crossing a few more times and on the last occasion we did check if we still had our number plate. It had gone and it wasn’t lying at this crossing.

After a long hot day in the car we jumped into the river, only to find, when we got out, that there was a hippo about 15m from where we had been swimming.


We had to head home without a number plate and when we came to a vet fence gate a Policeman got up to stop us. I knew we were in for some fun and games.

When asked where my number plate was, I told him it was floating somewhere in the Boteti River. He wasn’t too sure about my answer so I told him about the ferry not working, and driving through, and that I had actually waded through the river with a hippo right there.

The policeman didn’t believe me, as he said there were no hippo there. So I showed him the pictures on our camera. He was now happier with my story and let us proceed.

It had been another amazing visit to Khumaga and it was great staying at Tiaan’s Camp. I can’t wait to go back again.

Read more on Tiaan’s Camp:

Read more on Khumaga in the Makgadikgadi National Park:

More photo’s the trip:


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5 Responses to Khumaga trip part 2

  1. Pingback: Another Face of Khumaga | Pete & Sue's Botswana

  2. Mick and Kay Flint says:

    We loved Boteti District ,Khumaga Makes us so homesick ,any fishing on these trips???

  3. Suki says:

    Great adventure. That is some sand. Lovely Mister Ellie pictures.

  4. Chris Olivier says:

    Hi Guys
    Thanks for a great blog. I’m heading that way beginning April for a 1st visit to Botswana. Do you have a picture of the route/map that runs from the Northern Gate back along the river to Khumaga?
    Thanks again for the great heads up!

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